Cycling Passes
| Name of Pass/High point we took our bikes over | Height | Date |
| Kozur La, Ladakh, India (trekking pass) | 5,626m | 2/9/12 |
| Yalung Nyau La, Ladakh, India (trekking pass) | 5,446m | 6/9/12 |
| Kaksang La, Ladakh, India | 5,438m | 22/8/12 |
| Kostse La, Ladakh, India (trekking pass) | 5,398m | 5/9/12 |
| Chang La, Ladakh, India | 5,381m | 16/8/12 |
| Khardung La, Ladakh, India | 5,359m*/5,368m | 14/8/12 |
| Taglang La, Ladakh, India | 5,344m | 24/8/12 |
| Wari La, Ladakh, India | 5,312m | 15/8/12 |
| Shingo La, Himachal Pradesh, India (trekking pass) | 5,058m | 19/7/12 |
| Rusi La, Ladakh, India (trekking pass) | 4,988m | 4/8/12 |
| Pologongka La, Ladakh, India | 4,972m | 23/8/12 |
| Kongka La, Ladakh, India (trekking pass) | 4,969m | 31/8/12 |
| Hor La, Ladakh, India | 4,936m | 21-22/8/12 |
| Nusgur La, Ladakh, India | 4,859m | 8/9/12 |
| Parma checkpoint, Ladakh, India | 4,630m | 18/8/12 |
| Penzi La, Zanskar, India | 4,502m | 31/7/12 |
| Sapi La, Ladakh, India | 4,397m | 5/8/12 |
| Fotu La, Ladakh, India | 4,106m | 7/8/12 |
Some of the lower passes we cycled over in the Himalaya:
| Other Passes we cycled over | Altitude | Co-ordinates | Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rohtang La, Himachal Pradesh, India | 3,979m | 32.371 N, 77.246 E | 13/7/12 |
| Namika La, Ladakh, India | 3,838m | 34.383 N, 76.460 E | 7/8/12 |
| Daran Ghati, Himachal Pradesh, India | 2,894m | 31.444 N, 77.755 E | 24/9/12 |
| Kalamuni, Uttarakhand, India | 2,763m | 30.038 N, 80.200 E | 3/10/12 |
| Sungri Pass, Himachal Pradesh, India | 2,618m | 31.309 N, 77.702 E | 25/9/12 |
| Chaurangi Khal, Uttarakhand, India | 2,324m | 30.645 N,78.489 E | 28/9/12 |
| Bahtkada Pass, Nepal | 2,263m | 29.200 N, 80.610 E | 11/10/12 |
| Radi Top, Uttarakhand, India | 2,256m | 30.771 N, 78.255 E | 27/9/12 |
| Chirbatia Khal, Uttarakhand, India | 2,200m | 30.391 N, 78.836 E | 30/9/12 |
| Kemunda Khal, Uttarakhand, India | 2,126m | 30.522 N, 78.552 E | 29/9/12 |
| Jopara, Uttarakhand, India | 2,123m | 29.959 N, 80.000 E | 2/10/12 |
| Binaek Pass, Nepal | 2,093m | 29.117 N, 81.305 E | 14/10/12 |
| Gwaldam Khal, Uttarakhand, India | 1,946m | 30.017 N, 79.534 E | 1/10/12 |
| Jarmola Dhar, Uttarakhand, India | 1,933m | 30.950 N, 78.098 E | 26/9/12 |
| Duni Pass, Nepal | 1,887m | 29.260 N, 81.100 E | 13/10/12 |
| Kanalichhina Pass, Uttrarakhand, India | 1,860m | 29.665 N, 80.270 E | 6/10/12 |
| Maroda Khan, Uttarakhand, India | 1,839m | 29.430 N, 80.100 E | 6/10/12 |
| Silgadhi Pass, Nepal | 1,574m | 29.272 N, 81.014 E | 12/10/12 |
| Pass 1,386m, Nepal | 1,386m | 29.200 N, 81.276 E | 13/10/12 |
| Lipna Pass, Nepal | 1,223m | 29.053 N, 80.333 E | 10/10/12 |
| Tanakpur Pass, Uttarakhand, India | 1,123m | 29.168 N, 80.089 E | 7/10/12 |
* This indicates the correct altitude of the pass. All altitudes without asterisks are those given by my Garmin eTrex 10 GPS, which generally seems to overestimate the higher passes by about 10-20m.
Hiking Passes
| Pass Name | Region | Country | Height (m) | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tashi Labsta | Rolwaling/Everest | Nepal | 5,768 | 13/01/2013 |
| Parang La | Rupshu/Spiti | India | 5,589 | 13/09/2012 |
| Jungben La | Dolpa/Annapurna | Nepal | 5,575 | 14/11/2012 |
| Kongma La | Everest | Nepal | 5,510 | 24/01/2013 |
| Mesokanto La North | Annapurna | Nepal | 5,452 | 20/11/2012 |
| Renjo La | Everest | Nepal | 5,406 | 18/01/2013 |
| Chan La | Dolpa | Nepal | 5,398 | 11/11/2012 |
| Eastern Pass | Annapurna | Nepal | 5,379 | 20/11/2012 |
| Cho La | Everest | Nepal | 5,356 | 22/01/2013 |
| Numa La South | Dolpa | Nepal | 5,321 | 10/11/2012 |
| Baga La | Dolpa | Nepal | 5,174 | 09/11/2012 |
| Larke La | Manaslu | Nepal | 5,160 | 25/11/2012 |
| Lauribina Pass | Helambu | Nepal | 4,660 | 16/12/2012 |
| Zatrwa La | Everest/Makalu | Nepal | 4,616 | 29/01/2013 |
| Bhima Lojun La | Annapurna | Nepal | 4,480 | 16/11/2012 |
| Panch Pokhari Pass | Makalu | Nepal | 4,453 | 31/01/2013 |
| Maure Lagna | Jumla/Dolpa | Nepal | 3,910 | 02/11/2012 |
| Pansan Pass | Ganesh Himal | Nepal | 3,840 | 04/12/2012 |
| Balangra Lagna | Dolpa | Nepal | 3,832 | 04/11/2012 |
| Khurpudada Pass | Ganesh Himal | Nepal | 3,731 | 05/12/2012 |
| Tinsang La | Rolwaling | Nepal | 3,423 | 05/01/2013 |
| Salpa Pass | Makalu | Nepal | 3,364 | 02/02/2013 |
| Chiya Bhanjyang | Kanchenjunga | Nepal | 3,114 | 14/02/2013 |
| Myangal Bhanjyang North | Ganesh Himal | Nepal | 3,094 | 02/12/2012 |
| Gothichaur La | Jumla | Nepal | 2,994 | 01/11/2012 |
| Milke Danda Bhanjyang | Kanchenjunga | Nepal | 2,934 | 09/02/2013 |
| Deurali | Kanchenjunga | Nepal | 2,634 | 11/02/2013 |
| Deorali | Rolwaling | Nepal | 2,349 | 03/01/2013 |
| Khande Bhanjyang | Kanchenjunga | Nepal | 2,127 | 12/02/2013 |
| Sablakhu Bhanjyang | Kanchenjunga | Nepal | 1,595 | 12/02/2013 |
Hills Climbed
| Hill/Mountain | Region | Country | Height (m) | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Spangnak Ri | Rupshu, Ladakh | India | 6,391 | 04/09/2012 |
| Kala Pathar | Everest | Nepal | 5,642 | 23/01/2013 |
| Gokyo Ri | Everest | Nepal | 5,362 | 20/01/2013 |
| Cherko Ri | Langtang | Nepal | 4,993 | 10/12/2012 |
Map of Himalayan Cycling Passes
View Cycling Passes - Himalayas 2012-13 in a larger map
Map of Himalayan Hiking Passes
View Himalaya 2012-13 - Trekking Passes in a larger map
Kozur La
| Name of Pass | Kozur La |
| Altitude | 5,626m |
| Type of pass | Trekking route - pushing/cycling |
| Where | Between the herder settlement of Rajun Karu (11km, 4,950m), and Gyamabarma |
| GPS Co-ords | 33.130 N, 78.099 E |
| Climb | 750m from Rajun Karu in 3 hours |
This pass is the highest point on the trekking route from Tso Kar to Tso Moriri. We were only able to ride a small part of the climb, but could ride the majority of the descent to Gyamabarma.
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Yalung Nyau La
| Name of Pass | Yalung Nyau La |
| Altitude | 5,446m |
| Type of pass | Trekking route - pushing/cycling |
| Where | Between the herder settlement of Sherma (9km, 5,160m), and Korzog (11km, 4,580m) |
| GPS Co-ords | 33.017 N, 78.179 E |
| Climb | 300m from Sherma in 3 hours |
This pass is on the trekking route from Tso Kar to Tso Moriri. We were able to cycle some of the climb, and almost all of the descent. At the top of the pass, Tso Moriri comes into view.
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Kaksang La
| Name of Pass | Kaksang La |
| Altitude | 5,438m |
| Type of pass | Cycle |
| Where | Between Mahe (40km, 4,200m) and Chushul |
| GPS Co-ords | 33.435 N, 78.559 E |
| Climb | 600m from Hor La Dett. in 2 1/2 hours (1,400m from Mahe in 5 hours) |
As far as we know, this is the highest pass you can cycle up to in India. (The Marsimik La is higher, but we tried getting permission for that by writing to and then meeting the DC in Leh, but he told us it was beyond his authority and that we had to contact the Ministry of Home Affairs in Delhi, which we couldn't be bothered to. So if you're desperate to get there, try that bureaucratic route.)
We're not sure if officially foreigners are allowed to the Kaksang La either, so it's best not to run into any border police en route, but there are no checkposts between Mahe and the pass. The cycle up from Mahe, over the Hor La and then up to the Kaksang La is fantastic. The scenery is wonderful, the only traffic is from roadworkers improving the top section of the road, and the surface is fine except for where it's being worked on. The gradients are often so gentle that on the descent it makes much more sense to just fly down the shortcuts. One of our favourite passes in India.
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Kostse La
| Name of Pass | Kostse La |
| Altitude | 5,398m |
| Type of pass | Trekking route - pushing/cycling |
| Where | Between Gyamabarma (1.5km, 5,200m), and Sherma (2.5km, 5,160m) |
| GPS Co-ords | 33.089 N, 78.122 E |
| Climb | 200m from Gyamabarma in 1 hour |
This pass is another on the trekking route from Tso Kar to Tso Moriri. It's a short push up from Gyamabarma, and the descent to Sherma is all rideable.
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Chang La
| Name of Pass | Chang La |
| Altitude | 5,381m |
| Type of pass | Cycle |
| Where | Between Shakti crossroads (33km, 3,750m) and Durbok (31km, 3,900m) |
| GPS Co-ords | 34.047 N, 77.930 E |
| Climb | 1,670m in 5 hours from Shakti |
This must be one of the busiest passes of its altitude in the world. We lost count at 300 vehicles passing us as we climbed up from Shakti - mostly tourists on their way to Pangong Tso. Despite this we still quite liked this pass as the scenery is nice and it's an enjoyable climb. Most of the time the gradients are gentle, but on the unpaved kms at the top there are some steep sections. Pity the army boys who get stationed on the pass for a month at a time, but make sure you take advantage of their complimentary tea!
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Khardung La
| Name of Pass | Khardung La |
| Altitude | 5,359m/5,368m |
| Type of pass | Cycle |
| Where | Between Leh (37km, 3,550m) and Khardung (33km, ~4,100m) |
| GPS Co-ords | 34.279 N, 77.605 E |
| Climb | 1,830m in 5 hours from Leh |
We won't lie, we're not huge fans of the climb to this pass. The two times we've been up here there hasn't been much snow around, so the scenery isn't very exciting, but there are always plenty of people and vehicles on the road. It is however one of the best engineered mountain roads we came across in India - the climb is easy as it stays at 5% virtually the whole way. The highlights were the fantastically informative and entertaining signs at the top, and the pleasant descent to the Shyok river on the north side. Don't forget to buy your "World's Highest Motorable Road - 18,380ft/5,602m" fleece at the top!
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Taglang La
| Name of Pass | Taglang La |
| Altitude | 5,344m |
| Type of pass | Cycle |
| Where | Between turn-off to Tso Kar (23km, 4,640m) and Rumtse (31km, ~4,100m) |
| GPS Co-ords | 33.508 N, 77.770 E |
| Climb | 700m in 2 1/2 hours from Tso Kar turn-off |
Another high pass that we weren't huge fans of. The scenery is nice, but the climb from Tso Kar was spoilt by the fact that for about 20kms we were passing through road works and workers' camp after workers' camp. Most of these guys were friendly enough, but there were a significant number of menacing characters. Cycling up here as a single female could be quite unpleasant. The whole climb was unpaved, but there was plenty of good tarmac on the switchback descent.
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Wari La
| Name of Pass | Wari La |
| Altitude | 5,312m |
| Type of pass | Cycle |
| Where | Between Agham (34km, 3,320m) and Shakti village (26km, 3,850m) |
| GPS Co-ords | 34.108 N, 77.834 E |
| Climb | 2,000m from Agham in 6 hours |
Now here's a good pass to cycle, and the hardest of the 5,000ers we crossed in India. The climb up from Agham has plenty of steep sections and we were grinding up in our lowest gear for quite a few hours. Only some tourist vehicles use the road, so after all the busy mountain roads in Ladakh it was refreshingly quiet. The zigzags on the south side of the pass lose height tortuously slowly (as we descended it seemed like a few of them went uphill) so it's much quicker and more fun to bomb down the shortcuts, cutting out a good few kms to Shakti.
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Shingo La

| Name of Pass | Shingo La |
| Altitude | 5,058m |
| Type of pass | Trek - pushing bikes |
| Where | Between Zanskar Sumdo (3,930m, 22km) and Kargyak (4,150m, 22km) |
| GPS Co-ords | 32.909 N, 77.200 E |
| Climb | 1,370m push in 2 1/2 days from Zanskar Sumdo |
This is a beautiful pass, but there is a lot more trekking than cycling between Zanskar Sumdo and Dorzong. Many cyclists take this route and put their bikes on horses, but we fancied a challenge so pushed from Zanskar Sumdo to Lakang, then occasionally cycled (but mostly pushed) from there to the road at Dorzong. A road is slowly being built along the route so maybe it'll be possible to cycle it in a few decades.
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Rusi La

| Name of Pass | Rusi La |
| Altitude | 4,988m |
| Type of pass | Trek - carried bikes, porters took luggage |
| Where | Between Tikat (3,340m, 12km) and Sapi (3,780m, 9km) |
| GPS Co-ords | 34.308 N, 76.113 E |
| Climb | 1,800m carry/push 1 1/2 days from Tikat |
This is a tough trekking pass to take your bike over. We hired porters to carry our equipment and took our bikes ourselves, carrying them as often as we were pushing. It was a day and a half walking up from Tikat to the Rusi La, then a couple of hours descending to Sapi. We didn't have good weather, but have heard the views are excellent if it's clear. We though it was worth heading this way to cycle to the nice road from Sapi to Shergol, which also means avoiding a few hours on the busy Kargil - Shergol road.
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Pologongka La
| Name of Pass | Pologongka La |
| Altitude | 4,972m |
| Type of pass | Cycle |
| Where | Between Mahe Bridge (4,150m, 33km) and Thugle (4,570m, 22km) |
| GPS Co-ords | 33.262 N, 78.182 E |
| Climb | 850m in 3 hours from Mahe Bridge |
We liked this pass a lot, not least because it reminded us of the Andean Puna. Pastel coloured rolling mountains, wide open spaces and virtually no traffic. Descending to Tso Kar was a real highlight.
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Kongka La
| Name of Pass | Kongka La |
| Altitude | 4,969m |
| Type of pass | Trekking route - cycling/pushing |
| Where | 11km from Tso Kar (4,560m) |
| GPS Co-ords | 33.201 N, 78.002 E |
| Climb | 400m in 2 hours from Tso Kar village |
This pass near Tso Kar is on the trekking route to Tso Moriri. As the path is good we were able to cycle almost all the way up to the pass, and all the descent.
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Hor La
| Name of Pass | Hor La |
| Altitude | 4,936m |
| Type of pass | Cycle |
| Where | Between Mahe (20km, 4,200m) and Horla Dett. workers' camp(4km, 4,840m) |
| GPS Co-ords | 33.339 N, 78.487 E |
| Climb | 800m in 2 1/2 hours from Mahe. 100m in 1/2 hour from Horla Dett. |
This is a great little climb, up from the Indus at Mahe, past Nungompa and the spectacular Yaya (Toure) Tso. We wouldn't really count it as a pass as it's really just a little bump on the way to the much higher Kaksang La, but have included it here as there's a pass sign at the top. Like with the Kaksang La, we're not sure if foreigners are officially allowed here, but if there's no-one to stop you...
Between Mahe and the Horla workers' camp we saw exactly zero vehicles - always a bonus.
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Nusgur La
| Name of Pass | Nusgur La |
| Altitude | 4,859m |
| Type of pass | Cycle |
| Where | Between Korzog (28km, 4,580m) and Mahe (4,150m) |
| GPS Co-ords | 33.144 N, 78.357 E |
| Climb | 400m in 3 hours from Korzog. |
This pass is the high point on the road from Mahe on the Indus, to Korzog on the shores of Tso Moriri. Coming from Korzog the road is very bumpy for most of the climb, though the top few kms are paved.
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Parma Checkpoint

| Name of High Point | Parma Checkpoint |
| Altitude | 4,630m |
| Type of pass | Cycle |
| Where | 47km from Tangtse (3,950m) on the Harong road to Chushul |
| GPS Co-ords | ? |
| Climb | 750m in 4 hours from Tangtse |
We were hoping to cycle up the Harong valley, over the Kongla La, past Chushul and then over the Kaksang La, and had been told there were no checkpoints en route. So it was a bit annoying to come across a detachment of Sikh Army boys at Parma. They were nice and friendly but wouldn't let us continue, so we had to backtrack over the Chang La.
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Penzi La

| Name of Pass | Penzi La |
| Altitude | 4,502m |
| Type of pass | Cycle |
| Where | Between Padum (3,600m, 80km) and Rangdum (4,020m, 31km) |
| GPS Co-ords | 33.873 N, 76.350 E |
| Climb | 1,320m in 1 day 2 hours from Padum |
Beat Heim lists this as one of his favourite passes, and as he knows a thing or two about cycling high roads, who are we to argue? The scenery on this road in Zanskar is fantastic and there is very little traffic. The surface isn't always great, but if that keeps the trucks away, who cares? This pass is definitely one of the best.
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Sapi La

| Name of Pass | Sapi La |
| Altitude | 4,397m |
| Type of pass | Cycle |
| Where | Between Sapi (3,780m, 15km) and main road at Shergol (3,190m, 25km) |
| GPS Co-ords | 34.372 N, 76.198 E |
| Climb | 620m in 2 1/2 hours from Sapi |
This road from Shergol to Sapi has a good surface and is totally traffic free, so it's great to cycle. Unfortunately it's currently a dead end, so unless you want to cycle it both ways, you'll have to do as we did and trek in via the Rusi La.
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Fotu La
| Name of Pass | Fotu La |
| Altitude | 4,106m |
| Type of pass | Cycle |
| Where | Between Heniskot (3,650m, 12km) and Lamayuru (3,550m, 14km) |
| GPS Co-ords | 34.289 N, 76.702 E |
| Climb | 760m from low point after Namika La (Khangral) in 1/2 day |
This pass is the highest point on the busy Kargil - Leh road. Didn't like cycling the road, but at least there's the lovely old town of Lamayuru waiting for you halfway into the descent to the Indus.
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Rohtang La

| Name of Pass | Rohtang La |
| Altitude | 3,979m |
| Type of pass | Cycle |
| Where | Between Manali (2,000m, xxkm) and Keylong (3,140m, xxkm) |
| GPS Co-ords | 32.371 N, 77.246 E |
| Climb | 2,000m in 1 1/2 days from Padum |
Not your everyday mountain pass. The top is a veritable circus, with Indian tourists skiing, taking yak, donkey and skidoo rides and generally having a great time. It's a long, easy climb up from Manali, but the road is quite busy. To get away from the madness at the top, move a few metres into Lahaul and enjoy the wonderful scenery.
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Namika La
| Name of Pass | Namika La |
| Altitude | 3,838m |
| Type of pass | Cycle |
| Where | Between Mulbekh (3,300m, 16km) and Khangral (3,470m, 9km) |
| GPS Co-ords | 34.383 N, 76.460 E |
| Climb | 530m in 2 hours from Mulbekh |
This pass is the second highest point on the busy Kargil - Leh road. Lots of trucks, very arid scenery, didn't enjoy it.
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